How to Hard Cut in Slalom Water Skiing

(Source : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbSl6kJhimc)

Tuning Your Water Ski - Binding and Fin Adjustment (from Courtesy of Tommy Phillips)

Tuning techniques for slalom skis have been around for several years. Steve Schnitzer invented the adjustable fin to experiment with fin shapes for slalom water skis. Shortly afterward, he went to work with Herb O'Brien at HO Sports. With the help of Chet Raley and Mike Ferarro the adjustable fin was further developed and marketed on all HO Slalom skis. Now all other manufacturers have adjustable fin systems. Other people have been filing and sanding on skis for years to get maximum results.

THINKS TO CHECK

- Basic skiing technique is first
- Binding position is second
- Fin adjustment is third

The two best basic techniques for tuning water skis are in the bindings and fin systems. Adjusting the fin system on your slalom ski requires a basic working knowledge of what the fin and bindings do. The front half of the fin facing the nose of the ski effects the front of the ski. The back side of the fin facing the tail of the ski affects the back of the ski. Front and back movements of the fin effect the radius of the turn. Most manufacturers have factory settings that are recommended for your first initial setting. Working from this point forward is the best way to get to the desired setting quickly. If your fin gets moved or damaged and you do not have the factory settings, set the fin 1" from the tail of the ski. 2 1/2" deep, and 6 3/4 long. This is an average setting but by no means is perfect for all water skis.

BINDINGS

Step one is to determine binding position on your slalom ski. If you are having a problem on both turns or on both sides of the wake the problem is likely binding position or technique of the skier instead of fin position. It is very important to understand what to do first.

Basic skiing technique is first. Most common is a lack of understanding of correct body position. If body position is correct then proceed to binding position. Binding position is second. Binding position is correct when the ski tip is in the optimum place. A general rule of thumb for most but not all of the skis is the water should be breaking at the ball of the front foot when the ski is gliding.

Two Most Commom Binding Position Problems

If the ski tip is riding very high on the finish of both turns the solution is have the skier bend the front knee at the beginning of the edge change and ride this bent knee and ankle position through the entire turn first before adjusting binding position. A good technician works with the skiers fundamentals as well as ski tuning.

If the ski tip is equally high on the finish of both turns and body position and knee bend is correct then the bindings need to go forward one hole. Always slow the boat speed down at least one or two miles an hour after making a change on a slalom ski.

If the problem is better but the tip is still riding high then go forward one more hole. The reverse is true when the ski tip is catching on both sides at the finish or beginning of the turn. First look at the skiers body position in the turns.

If the skier is too far forward and the body position needs correcting, try having the skier push his or her chest out further after the edge change and pinch the shoulder blades to stay centered over the ski. If the skiers stance is correct and the ski tip still catches on both sides, then move binding position back one hole. If the problem is better but the tip is still little low then continue back with the binding position.

FINS

Now it is time to determine if the fin needs more adjusting. The off-side turn is the best place to start. If the water-skier is right foot forward then the turn that goes from right to left is the off or weak side turn. The fin should be adjusted only if there is a problem on one side. Again if the problem persists on both sides then the problem is bindings instead of fin position.

If the water ski tip digs in at the finish or start of the off side turn, then the tip of the fin needs to be raised to the point where it does not dig in. The fin should be scribed across the top of the fin at the bottom of the ski. Scribe it with something sharp or you can even use a pencil. Once it is scribed you can always go back to the original position in case of a bad adjustment. To raise the tip of the ski three inches at the finish of the off side turn, loosen the fin clamp just enough to allow adjustment by softly tapping on the front of the fin with a plastic mallet or wooden hammer handle. Push the tip of the fin up half of the scribe line or approximately 1/32 of an inch. Yes, these small adjustments really effect the ski. By lifting the tip section of the fin up into the ski 1/32 of an inch you raise the tip of the ski 3" in the finish of the turn. If you go too far the ski will not change edges correctly or it will do a wheely at the finish of the turn. Don't move the back part of the fin yet.

Only move the front portion of the fin at this time. Only make one adjustment at a time on your ski and give it some water time to make sure you have made the correct adjustment. If you are a good water-skier you want as much of the tip of the fin down as you can with out breaking you at the waist at the finish or start of the turn. Once the tip adjustment of the fin is set you can determine what adjustment is next. If the ski is performing well do not adjust it.

The rear of the fin can be examined next and determine if the fin needs more adjusting to maximize performance. If the ski is hard to turn on your off side turn, you need to decrease the depth of the tail of the fin. If the tail section of the fin is deeper it will feel like a rail and be very hard to turn. Most skiers turn too hard and do not need this adjustment. In certain cases skis are hard to turn especially on your off side. If the ski feels like it is on a rail and you just can not turn it, go to the next adjustment. Tap the scribed mark on the rear of the fin up into the body of the ski about half of the scribe mark or 1/32". This will make a huge difference in ease of turning on your off side and also effect the on side turn. The opposite is true if the ski is overturning. When the ski overturns on the off side you need to add tail depth in the rear of the fin only. Again make small 1/32" adjustments and test on the water until the desired finish of the turn is dialed into.

Front and back movements effect the turning radius of the ski and how sensitive the fin is to changes in body position. If the skier has a slack line continuously on the on side turn, move the fin forward 1/16". This will tighten up the radius of the turn and tighten up the line. If you move the fin back the ski will act shorter. Forward movements will make the ski seem shorter.

Remember one thing. A relationship with your professional ski shop is the key. They can go with you on the water or they can recommend a coach or technician. If you can not go to the water with your shop, then bring in a video tape of your skiing. Ski shops can be the key to getting good educational tips and demo equipment.

Slalom Water Ski - Sizing Chart

Sizing

The size of your slalom water ski is very important. You want a water ski that best suits your skiing speed and body weight. Refer to the below chart for sizing. Determine your weight on the left column and the boat speed across the top. This is how you select the length of your slalom water ski.

You may have to scroll down the page a bit to see the sizing chart.

Slalom Ski Sizing Chart

Boat Speed	26-30 mph	30-34 mph	34-36 mph
80-110 lbs	63-64"	62-64"	-------
95-120 lbs	65-66"	63-64"	63-64"
115-140 lbs	65-66"	63-64"	63-64"
135-160 lbs	67-68"	65-66"	65-66"
155-180 lbs	69"	67-68"	67-68"
175-200 lbs	69"	69"	67-68"
195-220 lbs	72"	69"	69"
215 lbs and up	72"	72"	72"

Before You Buy a Life Vest Suitable for Boat Towed Sports

What you need to know before you buy a life vest (PFD) suitable for waterskiing, wakeboarding, and other boat towed sports.

Type

A Type III Inshore life vest, or personal flotation device (PFD), is most commonly used for boat towed sports. It is worn like a jacket and either snaps with buckles or zips up in the front. This type of jacket has a comfortable fit and is lightweight. Although, a Type III vest will not automatically position the person face up in the event they become unconscious while floating in the water.

Coast Guard Approved

A life vest should be U.S. Coast Guard approved, meaning, among other things, it has been impact tested and provides a minimum buoyant force.

View USCG Approved Vests at Overtons.com

Fit and Size

Try it on. Make sure the life vest fits securely and snugly around the body and chest, though not too tight as to restrict movement. Choose a size that is suitable to your weight and size. A good test to determine that a vest is not too large is when the arms are raised straight above the head the tops of the jacket should not be able to go above the ears.

Material

The exterior of the PFD is made of either nylon or neoprene. Nylon vests are usually less expensive, however, neoprene vests tend to be more comfortable, made with a softer fabric. Some vests are made with mesh draining gussets (vents) at the bottom to aid in water draining.

Vests Made for Women

If you are a woman buying a vest you may want to consider one specifically made for a woman's torso. These vests are shorter than vests made for men. Shorter vests make it easier to bend at the waist.

View Ladies' USCG Approved Vests at Overtons.com

Vests Made for Small Children

Children ages three and under should wear a vest containing head and neck support (extra padding behind the head), and a strap that goes under the crotch which prevents them from sliding out the bottom of the vest. These vests should also have a handle on the back which aids in picking children up and out of the water.

View Infant's USCG Approved Vests at Overtons.com

Before You Buy a Wetsuit

Wetsuits are made of neoprene rubber and come in many different styles and thicknesses. A wet suit traps a thin layer of water against your body inside the suit. The water is warmed by your body heat. If you live in a warm climate you may have no need for a wet suit, however if you live where the waters are often in the 70 degree Farenheit range or colder you may want to consider one. Choose one that works best for you.

Environment in Which the Suit Will Be Worn

The first step in determining what type of wetsuit you will buy for waterskiing or wakeboarding is to know the weather conditions (water and air temperatures) in which you will be using it. Different temperatures and seasons require different types of suits to keep you warm.

Wetsuit Thickness

Wetsuits are manufactured in terms of body warmth and millimeters (mm) for thickness. A 1 mm or 2 mm suit will most likely work for water temps above 70 degrees F. A 3mm or 4 mm suit is a great choice for water temperatures of 50 to 70 degrees F. For water below those temps, a 5 mm hooded suit may be your best bet or even a dry suit. A dry suit differs from a wetsuit in that a dry suit has rubber seals around the neck, wrists and ankles and keeps all water out or the suit.

Wetsuit Design

A shorty suit is one with short sleeves and the bottom cut just above the knee. This type allows for maximum flexibility but is intended for water temps that are not extremely cold and they allow the least amount of exposure protection. A full suit extends to your ankles and wrists and is used in colder water. Farmer john type suits has full length legs and the top is tank top style. A full suit provides the most warmth but is the most movement restrictive. View Overton's Wetsuits.

Seam Construction

Seam construction indicates the quality of the suit. A high quality seam is one where the material edges meet flush and are glued or sewn together. It is then covered by a strip of cloth. Poorer quality seams are exposed and may come loose at the seams.

Overlock stitching is not high quality and allows water to freely flow in and out of the suit. Overlocking may work for warmer water.

More on Seam Construction

A flatlock or flat stitch is a seam on the inside of the suit. It is more comfortable against the body and helps prevent rashes but still allow water to enter the suit.

A blind-stitched suit has glued and stitched over seams and is better for colder water as it allows very little water to enter the suit.

Blind-stitched with taped seams is an excellent suit for extremely cold water temps (50 degrees F and below). These seams are covered with tape and allow minimal water to seep into the suit.

Fitting

Try on several different suits to see which gives you the best fit. Ideally the suit will have a snug fit (including around the wrists and ankles) but does not restrict your movement or breathing. Wetsuits become more flexible once they are wet. A wetsuit that is too big allows too much water to rush into the suit. A good test for determining a good fit is to squat down while raising your arms above your head. If you can achieve this with comfort you have probably found a good fitting suit.

Life Vest

Don't forget to see how your life vest will fit over the wet suit. You may have to loosen the life vest for use over a wet suit.

Hint to Avoid an Embarrassing Moment

When putting on a wetsuit make sure the zipper is in the back. They all come with a long string attached to the zipper which makes it easy to zip it up.

Compare Prices For Wetsuits & Dry Suits

Before You Buy a Slalom Water Ski

Welcome to the Getting Started In Slalom Waterskiing Articles. Today you'll learn everything you need to know to introduce you to the sport, including information on buying a slalom water ski and life vest, which foot to put forward on your ski, deepwater starts, hand signals, crossing the wakes, buying a boat, slalom driving tips, water / boating safety, and more.

Today's lesson focuses on the first step, buying a slalom water ski.

Before rushing off to the ski pro shop to buy the slalom water ski that best matches the color of your wetsuit or life vest, take a moment to consider several factors: different styles, features, sizing, bindings, fins, and most likely, a test run. The ski style should closely reflect your skill level and the type of skiing you want to do. The features of the ski determine how it will perform.

Styles

There are four categories of slalom water skis; wide body, shaped, traditional, and world class. Wide body skis have added width, making them great for beginners who need the added stability. Shaped skis are a combination of wide and traditional skis, making them ideal for both beginner and experienced skier, but with more stability than a traditional ski.

More on Styles

Traditional water skis are popular among competitive skiers in that they will hold an edge and turn easily. World class skis are for the serious and advanced or expert skiers in that they are extremely aggressive and offer more speed control while running the slalom course.

Features

Bevel is used to describe the side of the water ski, or the transition area between the side of the ski and the bottom of the ski. Beginner skis generally have sharp beveled edges and more advanced skis have more rounded bevels. Rocker affects the performance of the ski or board in the way that the greater the curve, the tighter the turn.

More on Features

The softer the flex, the tighter the ski will turn, the more the ski will bend. Tunnel/concave: an inward bent shape of the underneath portion of a slalom water ski. Tunnel is used to improve tracking around high speed turns.

Sizing

The size of your slalom water ski is very important. You want a ski that best suits your skiing speed and body weight. Learn More...

Bindings/Boots

You want your ski bindings (or boots) to be snug but not tight. If the boot is too tight you run the risk of breaking an ankle, leg, or knee because the ski may not properly release from your foot upon falling. There are several different kinds of boot make-ups. Typically there will be a high wrap binding in the front, which snugly covers the entire foot as well as high on the ankle.

More on Bindings/Boots

In the back there could also be a high wrap binding (the entire foot fits into like a boot), or an adjustable rear toe plate (you simply point your foot straight into a dome). Generally these bindings are made of a heavy foam material, however in recent years hard shell bindings made of a stiff plastic have come on to the market.

Fins - Try Before You Buy

Fins are the tracking and turning device located on the bottom of the rear of the ski, keeping the ski traveling in the direction in which you steer it. Most importantly, demo a ski before the purchase. No amount of research helps if you are unhappy with the ski. Most pro shops allow ski demos for a fee, but, many remove the cost in the event you end up purchasing the ski from them.

• Tuning Your Water Ski - Bindings & Fins